"Karen's Komments"

Painting on silk is the most magnificent medium I have ever touched! When the dyes touch the luxurious silk, they flow together making the most wondrous designs. This technique can be enhanced using salts, water, and alcohol. The results will be different when added to wet or dry dye.

The flow of the dyes can be controlled by first drawing a design using gutta or water-based resists, then painting your design within the lines.

Through many trials and tribulations, I have discovered a technique to stop the flow of the dyes, and produce a water color effect on silk, using steam-set dyes. A most amazing discovery!

Once the design has been painted, steamed, and rinsed, it is ready to be mounted on the canvas. A matte medium varnish is applied to the silk, which will adhere the silk to the canvas. This process provides a protective coating to the silk, and helps block out damaging UV rays. (You may find out more about this process by visiting Sandra Kay Johnson's website.)  The paintings are suitable for hanging, or may be framed over this process.

I am so happy to share my discoveries and techniques.  Private, semi-private and group classes are available in my studio in Port Angeles, Washington. Please contact me for further information at  360-457-3559.

Or Telephone me at:

360-457-3559

360-452-4388 Fax

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The Sistek steamer story
 

The steamer may be constructed out of any electric fry pan or pot. Things to consider are:

• It must be able to maintain a constant temperature of 200 to 210 degrees Fahrenheit
• The longer you plan on steaming, the greater the capacity of the vessel needs to be–remember that the steamer must NEVER be allowed to run dry or it may ruin your silk.
• The lid should be one that sits INSIDE the pot so condensed steam will return to the pot and not run down the outside.

I prefer the "Super Souper" made by Westbend^®. It is no longer in production, so I look for them at thrift stores and garage sales. It has a large capacity that allows me to steam for up to three hours.

To construct the steamer you need:

• A suitable pot with tight fitting lid
• Length of 8" galvanized metal ducting. It should be long enough to allow 4 inches between the bottom of your rolled silk and the top of the pot. Keep in mind that if the pipe is too long it becomes difficult to insert you silk into the steamer without the use of a ladder. I have found that a 5-foot pipe is as about a long a pipe that I need, and still need to use a step stool to insert and remove my silk. The pipe comes in varying lengths, and pieces can be joined end-to-end if necessary.
• Tool to cut a hole in the lid. I use a rotary cutting tool.
• Tin snips.
• Drill motor.
• 3/16” drill bit.
• (4 each) 10-32 by 1” stainless steel machine screws, washers, and nuts.
• Tube of 100% silicone caulk.

Assembly Instructions

1. Snap together duct pipe if needed. (Fig 1)
2. Locate center of pot lid and cut a 7¾” diameter hole. (Figs 2,3,4)
3. Cut four 1¼” tabs in crimped edge of duct. DO NOT BEND THEM OUT YET!
4. Place the duct in the lid. (Fig 5)
5. Bend the tabs OUTWARD. (Fig 6)
6. Make sure the duct is vertical when the lid is placed in the pot, and then drill a hole in each tab through the lid. (Figs 7,8)
7. Place a machine screw through the lid and tab, and then fasten securely with a washer and nut. (Fig 9)
8. Cut two notches in the top of the pipe to accommodate a rod to suspend your silk package with.
9. Seal all seams, openings, and around the screws with silicone sealant. Apply liberally!

You may find it necessary to use some insulation on the pipe to maintain temperature. There is a product which is aluminum faced, bubble plastic (Fig 1) which should be available from the store where you buy your duct. You might also consider attaching some sort of grate or wires in the bottom of the pipe to keep your silk roll from falling into the pot should your suspending rod break.

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